TCP Global 2.5 Gallon (10 Liter) Heavy Duty Steel Pressure Pot Paint Tank with Air-Powered Mixing Agitator, Regulator & Gauge - Ideal for Large Volume Painting, Auto Body & Industrial Spraying Applications

This pot is a great value and perfect for turning into a pressure pot for casting resin and these are my instructions on how I converted it!This pot comes with almost everything you need to convert to a pressure pot for resin casting. There are a handful of other items you need in order to convert. You can find them all here on Amazon or at your local hardware store. I think I spent another 15$ Total on all these items.1/4-in NPT Mini Ball Valve3/8-in (to 1/4) Threaded Male Adapter Bushing Fitting1/4-in Threaded Cap Fitting1/4-in Threaded Female Elbow Fitting1/4 -in Threaded , 1/4" Male NPT Safety Valve, 60 psi Set Pressure1/4 -in Threaded NPT air compressor coupler fittingTeflon or Plumbers tape1st thing is to remove all the fittings from the lid. Including the pipe that goes down from the lid into the pot. All these parts were extremely difficult to remove, as they should be as this thing is made to hold paint under air pressure! I had to use a vice in order to get all the parts off. And even had to cut one of the fittings off with my Dremel. It was the hardest part for sure.Once all the parts are off clean the two holes with the included brush. There will be a lot of pipe glue that you will want to get off.Next thing is to wrap Teflon tape around all the male threads. This means on all 3 sections of the included T pressure gauge, on the 3/8-1/4 reducer on the air pressure fitting and on the safety valve.Both holes look similar, but they are not the same size/thread. One is a 1/4 and the other is 3/8. You will want to use your 3/8 to 1/4 reducer on 3/8 hole. Use a wrench to make sure the reducer is securely attached.Now let’s talk about the T shaped gauge that comes with the pot. Wrap all 3 male threaded parts with Teflon. On one side of the T connect the 1/4 cap, and on the other side screw on your female elbow. To the elbow you want to put your ball valve(again Teflon all the threads) and to the ball valve goes the air pressure fitting. Make sure these are all tight with a wrench (not just hand tight)Now you want to screw in the bottom of your now complete T gauge assembly to the 3/8 to 1/4 reducer you have already installed on the lid.So all we have left is the 1/4 inch hole in the lid. All we need to do on this one is screw in the 1/4 inch safety valve (Teflon again)So now you should be assembled!It’s worth saying again. All joints MUST have Teflon tape so the air doesn’t leak and you MUST screw them on with a wrench as tight as it will go. A pressure pot can explode if not assembled correctly.Here are some tips on filling with air.When you are filling you will need to have double the amount of pressure (psi) in your air compressor tank than you want to fill the pot to. So if you need 40 lbs of psi in the pot you will need your compressor tank to have at least 80lbs. If you don’t you will notice that the pressure will even out and stop filling.Attach the lid and screw down the clamps opposite from one another at the same time. This keeps the lid level and prevents leaks.If you are losing pressure you can spray the joints with soapy water, where there are bubbles there are leaks. Empty the tank using the ball valve and tighten your joints or take off and use more Teflon before attaching again..Keep the ball valve closed while you are attaching your air compressor hose, and slowly open so you don’t knock over your molds inside the pot.Always use the ball valve to control the release of air. Do not take off the lid while the pot is pressured.Hope this helps!! Good luck!